Today, timber patio decking is a highly popular addition to the English garden. A huge range of timber decking kits are available online, and most are relatively straightforward to construct - provided you have some basic DIY tools, and a little experience.
Once you have planned your decking area, and prepared the oversite, the next step is to begin constructing the joist subframe.
There are four distinct reasons for building the joist subframe:
1. The joist frame provides a structurally sound base onto which the decking joists are mounted.
2. Only Hazard class 4 treated timber should be in contact with the ground. C16 timber is the most common strength class in Britain, and is widely specified by architects and builders for, amongst other things, flooring joists and decking joists. C16 timber limits the amount of defects (knots, grain deviation, etc) that span the timber.
3. The joist frame will provide much-needed lateral rigidity
4. The joist frame will not settle or subside - and neither will it sag or sink in one corner.
Use of Support Posts in Raised Decks
Most raised decks use post (placed at no more than 3000mm) centres, each of which site either in, or on top of, a concrete footing.
Fixing The Joists
To ensure a free-draining area, we recommend the boards are laid down the gradient (if any) - particularly if the deck boards are to be grooved.
Depending on the precise type of deck you are building, decking joists can be fixed in a number o different ways. For a ground-level deck, simply build a joist raft which sits on top of the free-draining oversite.
Where the deck is raised, timbers are fixed using lightweight metal connectors - these are more commonly known of as mini joist hangers. Raised decks should also use connecting timbers, known as noggins, between each joist, for extra subframe rigidity.
If balustrades are to be fitted, newel post should be installed at this point - before any decking is laid. Once the newel posts are installed, the next step is to fit the bottom rail (baserail) section between the newel posts. Next, fix the toprail (same profile as the baserail) at approx 900mm height. Finally, use spacing infills to space each spindle at around 120mm centres (ensuring that no opening is greater than 100mm - this is a requirement of the UK's planning regulations).
Care and Maintenance of the Decking Area
What to expect from the decking Area
It is fairly common for small splits in both the decking timbers and the joists in the warmer spring and summer months - this is simply due to the timber drying out and shrinking slightly. Likewise, in the winter months, these splits will typically close-up as the timber regains its shame, even swelling if weather conditions are particularly damp and cold.
During the first 12 months of your deck's life, the colour of the timbers will fade slightly due to the graying effect of UV rays, caused by sunlight.
If a timber decking kit has been poorly constructed, or poorly situation in the garden, the risk of colonization by surface moulds will be increased significantly. Surface moulds do not affect the structural performance of the timber decking kit, but if it is left to develop alone it is quite likely to develop a speckled black stain on the surface of the timber within a short while. By treating your timber decking kit early, this type of mould can be easily removed using a kitchen scourer and a deck cleaning agent, such as cuprinol decking cleaner.
Cleaning your timber decking kit
Even high-quality, treated timbers will not look perfect after a long winter - particularly if there has been a damp spring. A little time spent cleaning the timber decking boards will pay huge dividends in the summer months therefore.
We recommend sweeping the deck at regular intervals, as well as hosing the timber decking boards down as dirt begins to accumulate. By preventing dirt to accumulate on the deck, you reduce the risk of mould and fungal growth on the timbers - which will significantly improve the appearance and lifespan of your timber decking area.
If you fail to clean these mould contaminations, your timber deck may become a slip hazard. If this has already happened, cleaning the deck with a cleaning agent will certainly help matters. Hickson décor anti slip is a clear, brush-on deck coating which will undoubtedly go a long way towards providing grip under-foot on your timber decking boards.
Take good care of your timber decking kit
Finally, it is always advisable to check the decking boards and joists on a regular basis for splinters of timber - these should be carefully removed, for obvious safety reasons.
Richard Harwood is a leading supplier of cheap decking kits, deck boards and other timber decking components, and is founder of Timber Decking Warehouse, a leading decking company based near Leicester, UK. Timber Decking Warehouse has designed a wide range of high quality, cheap decking kits and can also supply customised or bespoke decking by the meter.
Which deck materials are right for your deck? Which material is best? Which one lasts longest? Which one requires the least maintenance? Which one costs the most? Or the least? If you choose wrongly, you may have just spent a lot of money on a product you aren't happy with. And one you will likely be stuck with for quite a while.
The answers to these questions and more are found here. There is no single answer to some questions about deck materials. Your situation has characteristics that others may not have, so your needs will be different. Let's look at the options so you can make an informed confident decision. One that you will be happy about for years.
The primary materials used for decks are; wood, composite, plastic and aluminum. We'll look at them individually as you decide what material is best for your deck and your wallet.
Wood
Wood is by far the most common material used for decks. Somewhere around 85 percent of single family homes have some sort of deck. A very high percentage of those are made of wood, mostly pressure treated pine. There are good reasons for the popularity of treated lumber. Yellow pine is strong. If you want to impress your friends you can describe it as dimensionally stable. The rest of us just say strong. It is inexpensive (relatively speaking) and readily available, pretty much everywhere. Treated lumber looks good, especially after it has been stained. When it weathers, it can be refinished easily and look as good or better than new. Yellow pine is easy to cut, nail, screw, and work with in general. On the down side, it doesn't last as long as most of the other products. With proper care, you should get 15 years of good service from a treated lumber deck. Yes, you will need to clean, sand and refinish it every other year or so. And there are always the splinters, cracks, warps, and general wearing out over time. It's always best to look at cost issues over time, rather than just the initial cost. Estimates vary, but when the cost of maintenance and earlier replacement is factored in, the cost of treated pine usually catches up with more expensive woods in 5 to 8 years. Of course, if you need to keep the initial cost low, the cost over 8 years isn't what is important at that time. Let's look at some of the other available wood species.
Redwood
Redwood is an excellent choice for deck material. But you should be very aware of the different grades of redwood. Essentially, the grade is determined by which part of the tree the wood came from, among other factors. The best, and most expensive grade is heartwood, which comes from the heart (or center) of the tree. "Construction heart" and "Select heart" are the best to use for decks. Heartwood can easily last over 30 years in favorable climates. Even in harsh climates it will easily last 20 years. Any other grade should be used only if pressure treated first. This and other harder "soft woods" should be drilled before nailing at the ends of the board to avoid splitting. Redwood has a brownish red color that ages beautifully. Maintenance is still required, but much less often than pressure treated pine. Redwood is about three times the cost of pressure treated pine. Labor costs should be comparable.
Cedar
Cedar is another fine choice for deck material. Again, grade is important. "Custom clear" or "Architect clear" are the best grades for your deck. Why, you ask, does it matter which part of the tree the lumber comes from? The center, or heart, of the tree contains more of the resins that make these species less susceptible to the damaging effects of the weather. The growth rings are closer together, giving the wood a tighter grain - so less tendency to warp. This wood is also more resistant to insects and less likely to rot. End of botany lesson. There are several varieties of cedar, with colors ranging from reds to yellows. The lighter colored species stain beautifully. Like redwood, the ends of the boards should be pre-drilled. Most cedars will easily last 20 years.
Mahogany
Mahogany is occasionally used for decking materials. You need to be careful if you choose mahogany - be sure the wood comes from South or Central America, Mexico, or the West Indies. Usually called American mahogany, this species has great qualities for deck building. It is highly resistant to water and insects and has a deep red color that makes a stunning deck. Avoid the Philippine mahogany varieties as they are not nearly as suitable. The same general rules apply with mahogany as with the other high end woods.
Ipe
Ipe (pronounced ee-pay) is a great wood for deck building. It has some characteristics that are unique among these high end deck materials. And its name is the most fun to say. Really, say "Ipe" quickly five times without giggling. Okay, maybe its just me. Anyway, the wood is extremely durable and is almost impossible to make warp, cup, twist OR splinter. There is no need to seal Ipe, except on the ends of the boards where it is cut. It will weather to a silvery gray color, but will not splinter and will remain smooth. Ipe is also known as ironwood and by the trade name of Pau Lope. It is a very slow growing tree, hence the growth rings are close together and it is extremely dense. That density produces its good qualities, but it also makes it very hard and very heavy. So it is hard to cut and hard to work with in general. Expect your labor costs to be high, as well as your material costs. If Ipe fits in your budget, you will have a beautiful, very low maintenance deck for 30 years or more.
Any of these woods, including the lowly pressure treated pine, can be used to build a beautiful, long lasting deck that will serve you well for years. The differences are in the life of the wood, the maintenance requirements, how it ages and weathers, and the appearance characteristics of the particular species. Cost is reflected in how well the particular decking materials respond to each of those factors. Weigh the benefits against your budget, pick one, and start building! Of course, there are other options as well...
Composite Deck Materials
Composite decking has been the subject of some controversy over the years. I really believe the problem was that it was over-hyped when it was introduced. Many people believed that it was the end of all problems associated with deck materials. They thought is was maintenance free and it would last forever. It is not and it will not. Composite decking is made of a blend of plastic and wood. If there are exposed pieces of wood, they will be subject to the same properties of deterioration as all other wood. The pieces of wood that are completely encapsulated within the plastic will not be exposed to the elements, so they should not deteriorate. Composite deck materials are not all the same, so use a quality product from a reputable source if you choose this option. Avoid the "cheapos', or you'll likely regret it. Composite decking material is "low maintenance"; it is NOT "no maintenance". I'm pretty sure that violates some grammar rule, but you know what I mean. The color will fade over time, and the material can collect stains. Composite material can be scratched fairly easily. In direct sunlight, it can get very hot! If you walk on it barefoot, it will not take you long to get where you wanted to be. However, you will not have any splinters, because there aren't any. Composite material can be prone to mold and mildew, although improvements in the product have made this less of a problem. It is not as structurally strong as wood so it has to be well supported to avoid "bounciness". Typically, treated yellow pine is used for the support structure and composite components are used for the decking and the rails. Thin material is available for wrapping the outer band to give a more uniform appearance. The railing components are quite expensive, so PVC railing is often substituted. When composite decking materials deteriorate, they can't be sanded and refinished, like real wood.
If this sounds like I'm anti-composite, I'm not. It is actually a good product and many, many people have used it with great results and are completely happy with it. It's just that the product was originally built up to be something it is not. The product is durable and while it will weather, it does not disintegrate. Many of the negatives I pointed out earlier also apply to real wood. Composite decking doesn't warp or rot, and never needs sanding or sealing. The boards are all consistent in size and appearance. There are no splits, cracks, or knotholes. Use it if it meets your needs, just understand that it does not last forever.
Plastic Deck Materials
Plastic deck materials are similar to composite, but there is no wood - they are pure plastic. These materials typically cost about 15% more than composite while keeping many of the same characteristics - but not all. Like composite, they offer a very consistent, uniform appearance. They are completely impervious to insects and to rot. Most plastic deck materials products are installed with a system that hides the screws, so there is a very neat appearance, The panels interlock so there is no water dripping through to the area underneath. This is especially nice if you have a patio or other usable space under you deck. Plastic decking requires little maintenance, similar to composite materials. It offers little in the way of structural strength, so proper support is critical. Unlike composite decking, plastic deck materials stay relatively cool, even in direct sunlight. Some customers complain of brittleness in very cold climates or when exposed to heavy UV rays for extended periods, but that is usually not a severe problem. In very hot climates, the plastic will expand and contract as it heats and cools, although again, this isn't normally excessive. From a practical standpoint, plastic decking makes a lot of sense, although it is expensive. From an aesthetic viewpoint, it is so consistent it lacks the "character" of other products. It almost looks too good. Of course, that is just my opinion, you may like that look. It has its advantages, so consider it for your project.
Aluminum Deck Materials
Aluminum is the last material we will consider here. I saved the most expensive for last. Just remember to consider that expense over time, not just at the initial buying time. Aluminum decking will outlast anything else mentioned, so if you buy it when you are 3 years old and live to be 96, it may actually be the cheapest! Really, it won't take that long to average out to be a good deal, but will you be in that house that long? It may help on resale, so you still might come out ahead. Aluminum is very low maintenance, and is easy to clean. It looks good, although it can be dented. Aluminum is lighter than the other products, but stronger. Like plastic, it stays cool in the sun, so there's no need to run across it like your on hot sand. Also like plastic, it has a very clean, almost sterile look. It lacks the homey character many of us like in good deck materials
www.thecompositecompany.co.za. It is probably the most practical, most expensive, but least warm of the deck materials listed. It would be an excellent choice for a commercial application, or maybe for a rental home at the beach.
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